Whether you like going fishing or are content to simply taste the result, you will find some of the country’s best fishing rivers, waterfalls, lakes and coastal stretches in the area surrounding Oslo. Not to mention people for whom converting catch into cuisine is part artform, part alchemy.
That is something easily overlooked, given Norway’s reputation as a major offshore oil producer. But the roots of this modern nation are deeply embedded in another, far tastier, treasure that lies hidden beneath the surface of the sea: fish.
Winter cod, salmon and herring have been among our largest and most important export items for hundreds of years. And Norway’s traditional right to roam freely in the countryside has ensured that anglers have also been able to spend their leisure hours hauling up the silver of the sea.
Although Norway’s west coast, from north to south, is often highlighted as a source of maritime pride, the Oslo Region is perhaps the very best area to fish for – and enjoy – all that is hidden beneath the waves.
Sandefjord’s culinary wizard
Not many people have the certificates to prove they are the world’s best chef, but Geir Skeie is one of them.
He won the prestigious international culinary competition Bocuse d’Or at the age of 28. Today, he runs a number of restaurants, including the seafood restaurant Brygga 11 in Sandefjord. The establishment’s philosophy is simple:
“Seafood to the people! Finding new ways of introducing seafood, and making it delicious and accessible, while retaining its distinctive taste. It’s the best way to convert people who think they don’t like seafood. We’ve had a number of guests who’ve asked in surprise: ‘Can it really taste like this?’” says Skeie.
One of his aims with Brygga 11 is to get people to eat more fish and to inspire them to increase the amount of seafood they cook at home.
“Consumption of seafood in Norway has fallen in recent years, which is sad. To some extent, this is to do with price, but knowledge also plays a part. Many people probably think it’s easier to cook a steak than a slice of fish. In reality, you could just as well use fish in dishes that you would normally make with chicken or pork.”
Geir Skeie is originally from Fitjar on the west-coast island of Stord, a place with a long fishing tradition.
In his experience, culinary preferences on the west coast are rather more traditional. Impulses from abroad and new ways of preparing fish, such as sushi and poke, often arrive first in the Oslo Region. In the west, there are still many people who won’t eat raw fish.
Brygga 11’s closest neighbour is the fishmonger’s Brødrene Berggren – an important supplier of the ingredients on which Skeie works his culinary magic.
“We have unique access to the best and freshest raw materials. Every day, we talk to the fishermen and the people working at the fish landing centre to ensure we obtain the best fresh produce and keep abreast of what’s going on. At times, certain items may be hard to come by, and being able to tell our customers why only adds to our credibility.”
When the quality is good…
And for Brødrene Berggren, credibility and tradition are the key. When the firm started up in 1911, the fishmonger’s was run by two brothers – the eponymous brothers Berggren. Since then, the baton has been passed down through the family. Today, members of the fourth and fifth generations work there.
The firm’s general manager is Kjell Henry Olsen, who, along with his wife, took over from her parents in 2004.
They greatly appreciate the firm’s collaboration with Brygga 11. Customers who have eaten at the neighbouring restaurant and who want to make the same dish themselves often pop in. Here they can buy exactly the same premium quality fish.
“We have very much the same views when it comes to fish,” says Kjell Henry. “We also want to make seafood accessible to everyone.”
Because quality fish doesn’t have to be expensive, he continues, letting us in on a little trade secret.
“As long as the fish is fresh and treated well from sea to store, you don’t need to choose the expensive varieties. Whiting and tusk (cusk) have a rounded flavour, and are both reasonably priced and delicious to eat. If you choose sole or turbot, prices are at a completely different level.
“When the quality is good, everything’s good,” he says with a chuckle.
Bountiful Skagerrak
Brødrene Berggren offer a wide range of fish and shellfish from the region: from fjord-caught haddock to wild salmon from the Numedalslågen river. The ‘Lågen’, as it is called locally, is one of the country’s finest salmon rivers.
However, it is the fresh, local prawns that are the traditional fishmonger’s biggest seller. Small prawn trawlers, typically just 35’ in length, chug out from the Skagerrak coast at dawn and return to harbour the same evening loaded to the gunwales with flavoursome prawns.
“These are day-fresh prawns of a very high quality. Skagerrak is grossly underestimated as a source of food. Here we have a bountiful supply of delicious seafood,” says Kjell Henry.
In the land of trout and perch
Norway has one of the world’s largest angling communities. “Almost half the population go fishing,” says biologist and fishing adviser Øyvind Fjeldseth, with the Norwegian Association of Hunters and Anglers (NJFF).
“Recreational fishing has a long tradition here in the Oslo region, dating back to the early 1900s. Participation increased particularly in the 1950s, when people were becoming more affluent and had more time and opportunities to get away from work.
When it comes to fishing, each region in Norway has its own identity. Northern Norway has winter cod, while herring and mackerel define the coast going south. Norway’s Eastern Region also has its own distinctive fishing traditions.
“The Eastern Region is characterised by freshwater fishing, with trout and perch as the most important species.
That said, there is a huge variety of fish to be caught in the region,” says Fjeldseth.
“The Oslofjord is the most species-rich area in Norway. Fishing for cod in the fjord is no longer allowed, but in the summertime there is plenty of mackerel to be had, as well as saithe, pollack and sea trout. In recent decades, sea trout, which grow large and plump out in the ocean, have acquired a key role and are, perhaps, the most important species for recreational anglers.”
Fjeldseth is keen to underline that everyone – from young novices to experienced fly anglers – can succeed with a fishing rod in their hands in this part of the country.
“Fishing for mackerel in the Oslofjord’s inner reaches is like plucking extremely low-hanging fruit. Everyone can do it, no matter what their age or level of experience. And you can take your catch home with a clear conscience. For children, fishing for perch in a woodland tarn is also a lot of fun. And with a few tips and hints, it’s not very difficult to fish for sea trout either.”
Doesn’t have to cost a fortune
Fjeldseth has one piece of advice that will take you far in your quest for underwater treasure.
“Get yourself some equipment that is reasonably good quality, but not necessarily extremely expensive. As a novice, there’s no need to spend thousands of kroner. You can always add to your battery of equipment over time.”
However, different types of fish do require different types of equipment.
“If you are going to fish for perch, for example, you need a small and supple rod. It’s all about tailoring the equipment to the type of fish you’re aiming to catch.
“The Vestfold area has more to offer than simply the Numedalslågen river,” explains Øyvind Fjeldseth. Including a species that has only recently found its way into our waters.
“In the sea off Sandefjord, you have a good chance of catching sea trout. And sea bass! It has come up from the south, is big and strong and exceptionally good eating.
The fishing expert is also full of praise for the area around Drammen.
“The Drammenselva river has salmon, while the Drammensfjord contains trout. And in the forests surrounding the city of Drammen, you will find a lot of excellent fishing spots with just one licence, including trout, perch and a score of other species, all amid beautiful scenery.
Good, old-fashioned craftsmanship
One of those who makes the most of all the delicious wild salmon in the Drammenselva river is Morten Sira, owner of the smokery Hansens Røkeri.
In fact, he buys all the wild salmon that leap up the salmon ladder at Hokksund. The salmon are caught by lowering the water level in parts of the ladder, which allows the king of fish to be captured with ease.
The salmon is smoked by Hansens Røkeri in the good, old-fashioned way – the same way as when the smokery first opened its doors in 1933. The fish is hand-salted, dried and smoked in old stone ovens. The smoking process uses sawdust made from pine and fir, as well as dried juniper berries.
“We have a unique product, which no one else in eastern Norway makes anymore. We don’t use artificial additives, and everything is done by hand. This is the very essence of the company, and that’s how it will always be,” explains the proud owner.
When Morten Sira was first employed at the smokery in 1990, his job was to drive around delivering fish and cured meat products to customers. In 2009, he took on a new role at the company.
“I liked the job so much that I bought it,” he says.
His timing was perfect. “In the past few years, people have really come to appreciate locally sourced seafood,” he continues. Last year, he opened a delicatessen business in partnership with the local butcher. Hansen & Andersen’s fresh food counter is almost 20 m long, and each metre is bulging with freshly made, local delicacies.
Hung up his fishing rod
While the shellfish are particularly popular, the fishcakes sell like – excuse the expression – hot cakes. Nevertheless, the boss’s personal favourites are the classic smoked salmon, as well as hot-smoked spiced salmon, which he calls “the company’s main standard bearers”.
“The purpose of the shop is not to sell expensive delicacies, but to give customers what they need, whether that’s sliced saveloy or kipper fillets,” he says.
Morten Sira hails from Hallingdal, some 140 km northwest of Oslo. In his younger days, he was a keen fisher of salmon and trout in the Hallingdalselva and Lierelva rivers. Now, he admits, work has taken over.
“I start work at three in the morning and am not home until the evening. So there’s not much left of the day,” he says.
The businessman pauses for thought before continuing:
“But I probably have enough seafood in my life anyway.”
Faktaboks: Planning a fishing trip?
* In Norway, sea and coastal fishing is open to all, apart from areas linked to private property.
* Special provisions apply to salmon rivers. So it is a good idea to check out the local rules beforehand.
* Here is an overview of fishing licences, their cost, availability and how to use them.
* If you would like to hire fishing equipment, you can, for example, contact the Church City Mission’s equipment borrowing scheme Skattekammeret. The scheme has outlets in Oslo, Drammen, Sarpsborg, Tønsberg and several other Norwegian towns and cities. Youngsters under the age of 18 can borrow equipment free of charge, while adults pay a modest rental fee.
Fishmongers and where to buy fresh sea food
How to explore the waterways in the Oslo Region
Fishing in the Lillehammer region
